Chevy & GMC Vans

Man, was I excited to find this forum today! I've been meandering around aimlessly in other general automotive repair forums for WAY too long.

I've got a power steering fluid leak down where one of the hoses is crimped onto the cooler. It's not impossible that it might be leaking elsewhere, too, but I thought I'd start with the obvious culprit. Seems like for the price I might as well replace that whole unit (https://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Cata ... 30+2030356). It will be about $20 with my discount.

Two questions: First, how much disassembly will be required to get at everything? Second, how much of the fluid is going to drain out? I figured I'd just cut one of the old hoses and let it drain that way.

Also, out of curiosity, I've read here that some folks have upgraded to a different style of PS fluid cooler with coils and fins mounted up in front of the radiator. Under what kind of operating conditions would that be necessary?

Thanks!

First & Foremost, Welcome Aboard...

Secondly, I have never messed with the PS System. Knock Wood. But, If it has worked all these years for so many, Why change it (the design)?

Good Luck and Keep us posted, Jim

Welcome. I think the cooler you are refering to in front of the radiator is for engine oil. The P/S steering cooler is nothing more than a tube tucked behind the front bumper. There's no need to do an upgrade.

Thanks, guys. I had seen a couple posts like this: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=3767&p=45529&hilit= ... ler#p45529

Curiosity more than anything. The more critical thing at the moment is to just get it fixed. So, any help for me on the procedure?

No need to upgrade to a tube and fin cooler. I did one in my 4x4 lifted Astro because we were out wheeling all day in the heat and the power steering system was being stressed running aired down 33's. Once you disconnect the old cooler, the new one will go right in. Not much to it. Get a quart or 2 of power steering fluid and flush the system out while you are there.

Thanks for your reply, Lifted. The only leak that I was aware of was coming from one of the cooler connections. Now that I've got the thing taken apart, I'm not sure what to think. The pressure hose from the pump to the hydroboost is really wet, too, and there's a lot of fluid on everything back in that area. That connection on the back of the hydroboost looks really tough to get at.

Also, if I may vent for a minute, taking that D**N fan off is a huge pain in the butt. I made a holding tool that is basically a bracket that I connect from one of the alternator bolts to one of the fan clutch bolts, but it's really tedious to get the latter in and out. Is there a better way?

To get the fan off, you need to remove the top half of the shroud. That is more of a pain than the fan. To loosen the fan, I use a large adjustable wrench and a dead blow hammer to usually hit it once.

Thanks for that tip. I'll try it next time. I've used that technique to get the flywheel off of my OB motor.

I did decide to also replace the hoses from the hydro to the gear and from the pump to the hydro while I was at it. Regarding the latter, I spent a good part of the day staring, scratching my head, running for tools (twice), and never could figure out how to get a wrench on the fitting on the back of the pump. I could get a crowfoot flare nut wrench on the thing but didn't have enough clearance past the bottom of the pump (coming forward) for the socket extension.

I'm not a professional mechanic, but I'm reasonably resourceful and I'm stumped. Do you actually have to remove the drag links to get at that? Any help would be greatly appreciated, otherwise I'm going to have to wave the white flag.

I replaced the steering box in my '97 Safari 2wd and can say for sure I would drop the box if I had to reach the fittings again. Here is a thread I did on the other site. Hope it helps.
http://www.astrosafari.com/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=9383

Thanks for that link, WB. Ouch.

I scanned your write-up, but I don't think you replaced the line I'm talking about, did you? It's the one from the hydro down to the back of the pump. Maybe I missed it. Mine is AWD, btw.

No, I didn't. Point is the same though, might be easier to move the pump.

I had a '74 Pinto, damdest thing, you needed to unbolt the motor mount and lift the engine to change the starter.

What year is the van? The Haynes manual I have is '85- '98. If it applies I would be happy to scan and post any info I can find.

Thanks, but it's a 2000 with AC. Looks to me like the AC compressor would have to come out because they're both bolted into a cast bracket fastened to the front of the motor. Could be wrong about that...