Trailer wiring for your van.

[Smiliesafari]

Drill a hole near the steering column. Use a grommet to protect the wiring. A piece of fuel hose makes a good substitute. I did this when I installed the strobe lights in my van.

[Rileysowner]

I will have to have a look and see around there for a spot.

[Rileysowner]

Drill a hole near the steering column. Use a grommet to protect the wiring. A piece of fuel hose makes a good substitute. I did this when I installed the strobe lights in my van.

I need a smaller drill. I was going to drill a hole today, but I can't find my gromets (I think my boy moved them on me). I tried to fit the drill with a small pilot bit and so far little success. I'm not sure if I am happy with the location either. Gotta keep looking.

[Rileysowner]

Finally found a point where I could fit my drill to drill through. Drilled, installed grommet, and got wires through. I still need to solder them, but I can't find my heat shrink tubing, so that will have to wait another day.

[California]

If you have a factory tow package, the factory wires will be bundled in the right rear of the van in the jack storage area.

Man I just can't find it, is there some sort of hidden door or something? I removed the jack and the hand vac yet I don't see anything. My van came with a tow bar..



Could it be on the other side? Whats behind that grill?

[LiftedAWDAstro]

Yes, it could be behind the left side panel. My 95 conversion was.

[California]

Cool I'll go check it now.

[California]

Mystery solved

After searching I had a look under the van and the bracket that held the loom/connector at some point either broke or rusted away and was tucked up and around the tow bar out of site. I'll get a new bracket for it next week and remount.
Thank you for the hints and tips.

[astronewbie]

First time on this forum. I am in the process of wiring a 7 pin connector for may travel trailer. This post is very helpful. My van has the tow package so there is the bundle of wires in the jack stowage area. The thing is, I can't seem to find the black wire for the 12 volt power in the bundle. Am I missing something or do I need to run a separate wire for the 12v power? It seems like it would be with the other wires????

I also picked up an LPD aux trans cooler and will be installing that this weekend.

[Kidhauler]

I believe that the 12v power wire is red. It should have a label on it with about a 15amp or 30 amp rating.

[JumboJet]

Does anyone still have the pic (line 11) referred to in v8famvan's first post in this thread? Thank you!

"The other ends of the orange & dark blue wires will be tucked under the carpet in the left front of the vehicle. Like in this pic."

[Snowgeek]

Ok so I see the orange wire for the 12v in the left front of the van but not seeing where that plugs in. Do i need to take the fuse block off and plug it in behind or does it go somewhere else?

I had a 7 pin harness that has been there since i got the van but with my new trailer it all seems messed up. It is weird that although the 7 pin was there that the orwnge 12v was never connected.

Any help would be great!

Ryan

[Snowgeek]

Update.... I kept looking at that fuse block and seeing colors listed and thought none said orange (the color of the wire) but really it is listing the color of the connector.... thus it was sitting right in front of my face. All done now and my wiring works.

Ryan

[Bret Schmerker]

Thanks for keeping everybody up to date on this Thread. I'm currently researching a fuse and relay block backport to my 1997 GMC M11006, and the trailer prep harness contains the following circuits:

9 - 0.8 BR Tail Mrkr Lic
18 - 1.0 YL, Left Brake-Turn
19 - 1.0 DGN, Right Brake-Turn
20 - 1.0 WH, Ctr H/M Stop
24 - 1.0 LGN, Back Up
1642 - 2.0 OR, +Vcc Upfit Bat
1647 - 2.0 DBL, Trailer Brake Drive
1650 - 2.0 WH, -Vss Common

The Pollak® PK 12-907 (nine pins) would provide for all lights, the trailer brake drive, and the +Vcc Upfit Batt to recharge any batteries on the trailer; the same manufacturer's PK 12-707E (Center pin plus six blades) would be short the center stop lamp circuit. The fuse/relay backport is slated to use at least five HELLA® H41773001 solid-state relays (Hella AG P/N 9 317 739 87) for the tail, left brake-turn, right brake-turn, center brake, and reverse circuits, plus a PAINLESS® 70117 for individual light-circuit fusing; I anticipate a mechanical relay inline with Circuit 1642 for Aux Power at the trailer, and the trailer brake drive and -Vss will be direct-connected to the PK chosen. With a new 100A circuit-breakered "Hot at All Times" wire to feed the relay load sides via the fuses, the additional circuits should be:

1602 - 3.0 RD, +Vcc Afterbody (from BATT)
1609 - 1.0 BR, Trailer Tail
1618 - 1.0 YL, Trailer LT Brake-Turn
1619 - 1.0 DGN, Trailer RT Brake-Turn
1620 - 1.0 LBL, Trailer Ctr Brake
1624 - 1.0 Trailer B/U and Brake Defeat

[Bret Schmerker]

Addendum: Pollak® is actually expecting the following AWG and colors for the PK 12-907:

1609 - 14 GN Trlr Tail Lic Run
1618 - 14 RD Trlr LH Stop Dir
1619 - 14 BR Trlr RH Stop Dir
1620 - 14 OR Trlr Ctr Stop
1624 - 14 YL Trlr B/U and Surge Brk Defeat
1639 - 12 GY Trlr Batt Chg Rly
1642 - 8 BK Trlr Batt +Vcc
1647 - 12 BL Trlr Brake Drive
1650 - 8 WH Trlr -Vss

And for the PK 12-707E:

1609 - 14 GN Trlr Tail Lic Run
1618 - 14 RD Trlr LH Stop Dir
1619 - 14 BR Trlr RH Stop Dir
1624 - 14 YL Trlr B/U and Surge Brk Defeat
1642 - 10 BK Trlr Batt +Vcc
1647 - 12 BL Trlr Brake Drive
1650 - 10 WH Trlr -Vss