Chevy & GMC Vans

Well moving forward a few years from my 90 Safari AWD could be a good thing provided i get my $450 paid to the auction out of her. Anyhow it was driven into the auction with a jumper needed I believe between fuel pump and who now's what.?? Anyway we hauled it buddy's place half way between pick up & home on a trailer and it fired today but no start. Plenty of spark, fuel but no go. It has a UNGO Clarion alarm with limited zones due to no power locks on doors, etc. I'm assuming only disable of sort due to we have plenty of juice coming for cranking starter. Does anyone have any knowledge of disabling such a useless toy. I am 100 km away from van right now and have no idea of model of unit. We are pointing this way for now but will throw a scan tool on next day so it may tell other. All the support needed will be spent looking till it drives home. LOL!!!

found these tidbids about the ungo from googling quick, not sure if any apply.. but.. here ya are.. all copied and pasted

oh.. and some alarms are wired that they will not start unless the e-brake is on, maybe try that first? or...

this one seems appropriate..

Ok, try this.
Put the key in the ignition, and turn forward
all the way just before cranking. Then within
5 seconds, locate, press and hold in the
valet/overide button, found under the
dash area, (push button, spring loaded)
until the installed LED (the blinking light)
in your dash area goes on solid,
and the siren chirps once.

(Your valet switch might be the toggle
(on/off) type. in this case, key on,
flip switch in opposite direction,
then turn the key off.)

This should reset the alarm, and reset
the grounded relay on the starter wire,
allowing you to start the engine.

At this point, the only thing working would
be the keyless entry from the alarm,
if it came equipped that way.

Just Repeat these steps to place it
back to usable armed mode.
You may get 2 chirps, confirming it,
and the lights may flash twice as well.

That should do it.
If you want to remove it at this point,
take it to your neighborhood installer
for this, or buy the wiring chart
(Go to: http://www.vehiclewires.com)
for the vehicle, and reverse engineer it wire
by wire, until safely removed.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
or

Look under the dash area for a button or, a toggle
switch. When you locate it, turn on the ignition
key, press and hold in the button (little
spring loaded micro button, red or black possibly)
until the alarm chirps 1 time. This should over ride
the system, and only the keyless entry part,
if installed, would still be operating.
The LED (light emiting diode) light in the dash
should also go on solid.

At this point. the alarm would have reset.
If this had a starter kill relay installed,
it would now be opened, and the engine would
turn over when tried.

You would repeat these steps to go back to
user mode to see if this was corrected.

Finally, go to try to get a new remote or 2
from a place like http://www.keynfob.com

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

good luck.. let us know how it goes

Thanks Crash for the useful info you provided. Worked like a charm but the bugger won't start. Changed cap, rotor and wires due to ugly amber looking spark. Lots of blue in my spark but this truck just won't start. Going into hi mode testing tomorrow's another day.

Well after finding the proper model of UNGO a manual was downloaded and this problem was all figured out but we still have no start. Checked fuel pump pressure @65 psi, checked relays under engine hood compartment, followed fuels wires back to tank finding others have been troubleshooting this system. Suspect problem wires within tank, removed wires and all look like new. ??? Now can someone confirm what kind of power should be at these wires in the tank? Sure as hell happy with my purchase price for this van, hopefully its not going to drive me to drink again. LOL!!!

smokinsiggy,

Grey wire - 12 volt feed to power the pump, 2 second prime with the key turned on / oil pressure or engine running.
Back wire - ground for the fuel pump.
Purple wire - fuel gauge sender control (+) wire.
Black/white wire - fuel gauge sender ground (-) wire.

If you are getting 65 psi fuel pressure, I would think the fuel pump is ok. I would think that you have a fuel delivery problem, not a pressure problem. Try spraying a bit of fuel into the throttle body area & see if the engine starts up. (this will confirm you have correct ignition timing & the engine is mechanically functional). If it does start up, you likely have a fuel injector issue or wiring fault.

Well this the saga just deepened with more electrical issues or misunderstandings. Have 12volts from pump to fuel relay. Continuity from all wire within tank to relay. Checked relay a second time by removing entirely from socket this time not referring to Haynes ridiculous explanation. Relay was NFG, replaced with AC delco had pump kick in a milisecond or so enough to bring pressure only to 30psi now. When one takes power from gray wire at relay and back to harness connection fuel pump stays energized constant. Hmmm, my head is so full of pulling my wire crap. Someone has jumpered a wire from splice in gray wire in fuel wire harness to the fuse box and screwed a circuit or sensor somewhere and be damned if its gonna kill me. Left it with a complete wire diagram and I'm confident he'll find it eventually. Anyone with any other suggestions please feel free to fill me with it. Thanks for all support! Who the hell knows it may be the wiring for the UNGO, that I have overlooked but it appears to respond to the remote, valet, and all other info from the manuals retrieved in an earlier post. ?????