Chevy & GMC Vans

Hey quick question for you guys. I have the original torsion keys in my van turned up all the way. What would be the difference in ride height with Dan's torsion keys turned all the way down? Or do you still have to adjust them to achieve the same height? How does that work?
Thanks.

I can't answer your question, but have one for you: Have you had any problems with your half shafts with the preload that high? I had my preload up for a while and lowered it back down due to fear of ruining the half shafts.

Thanks

What do you mean by preload?

That's what I've heard the adjustment bolts on the keys referred to in the past, meaning that they adjust the preload of the torsion bar which then affects the ride height if the weight remains the same.

Clear as mud?

Ahh gotcha.
Well hard to say. I've had it this way for about a year now and I've noticed a couple things. The axle seals which were only sweating before have turned into a slight drip. Also, at least one of the grease boots on the balljoints have torn. It probably isn't 100% caused by the preload, but I'm sure it doesn't help. But it's not just about the axles. The steering linkage, control arms, and all associated joints suffer more too.
But I REALLY need the extra little bit of lift. I nose of the van scrapes too often and I'd like more wheel well clearance as well. It's definately a trade-off.

So to rephrase my question,
maximum preload on stock keys = ??? preload on reindexed keys

The new keys from OLV will raise the front more than the stock keys. Raising the front more WILL increase the wear and tear of the front end components. Idlers, ball joints and CV shafts will wear much quicker. It is definitely a trade-off. I think you would be better off trimming and inch or 2 off the bottom of the stock bumper.

LiftedAWDAstro wrote:The new keys from OLV will raise the front more than the stock keys.

Yup, I know the re-indexed keys were made to give more lift. What I'm wondering is how much. If I put them in without turning up the bolts at all, will that make the front end already higher than with my stock keys turned up all the way. In other words, how much of a difference between the two keys.

I have a set of the keys. I got about an inch or more lift out of them. I took them out. I personally think they are the worst thing you can do to your van. The angles are way to extreme.

lockdoc wrote:I have a set of the keys. I got about an inch or more lift out of them. I took them out. I personally think they are the worst thing you can do to your van. The angles are way to extreme.

My suspension is already lifted, so the damage is being done. If I crank it up another inch, it's going to change the angle by another 5 degrees. Is it really going to make such a huge difference?

LiftedAWDAstro wrote:I think you would be better off trimming and inch or 2 off the bottom of the stock bumper.

The bumper is not the problem, it's the back of the wheel well. I've already shaved off as much as I could.



Judging from people's answers, I might be able to squeeze another inch out the body lift without having to make any modifications, but I don't think that will change the tire clearance significantly. I guess the only option I have left after that, would be to cut into the back wall, and then weld in some kind of reinforcement.

The tires rub often, and especially when the van is loaded . Ideally, I would like enough room to be able to put chains on the tires and not have to worry about damage.

BFH is your friend!

Seriously though, I was thinking you were having scraping issues with the front end. The issue of the tires rubbing on the firewall can only be addressed by going back to a deeper offset wheel and tuck the tire back under and cutting, hammering and welding the back of the wheel well. All the lift in the world will not make more space when the suspension compresses.

Tire chains...they will never fit in the wells with a 30" tire. You will need to run stock sized tires to fit any type of chain. Either that or cut a lot of the firewall out.

LiftedAWDAstro wrote:You will need to run stock sized tires to fit any type of chain.

That thought had occurred to me too. I would get some torque back, and my damn brake discs wouldn't warp as quickly as well.

EDIT: What am I talking about. I'd have to replace my chains then.

Why replace them? Take some links out. I can't even imagine the clawing ability of an AWD/4WD Astro or Safari with chains on all 4! I know what these vans go through with A/T tires!

They have chains for 15 x 30 x9.50. getting some for next year. On the roads around here all the trucks run chains on all fours. here ya go: http://www.tirechain.com/TRUCK-SUV-CHAINS.HTM

sandfly wrote:They have chains for 15 x 30 x9.50. getting some for next year. On the roads around here all the trucks run chains on all fours. here ya go: http://www.tirechain.com/TRUCK-SUV-CHAINS.HTM

That's where I got mine. I bought v-bars last winter for all four wheels. So far I've used them on the rear wheels and they work great. I have yet to try them on the front wheels due to clearance. I think I'll try modifying the firewall. I just don't feel like it in this weather. Especially when it's my daily driver.