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 Post subject: Oil cooler line REPAIR
PostPosted: Sun Jun 21, 2009 7:55 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 25, 2008 7:50 am
Posts: 742
Location: Near Los Angeles, CA
We have a thread on how to remove the oil cooler lines and manifold but not one on how to repair them. My oil cooler lines have been leaking really bad ever since I added in my 2" body blocks during my lift. The oil cooler itself is attached to radiator which is bolted to the body, and the other end of the lines are attached to the oil cooler manifold which is bolted to the engine....which of course is bolted to the vans chassis. So adding any type of lift block between the body and chassis will stretch the lines. As we all know these lines leak no matter what, but having a lift stretching them makes the leak much worse.

I live in CA where it gets rather warm, so eliminating the lines altogether made me a bit nervous. Repairing them seemed to be the better option, especially since it looks damn easy to do. So that's what I did, and I thought I'd post some photos showing my method and how easy it is.

What the lines look like after you remove and clean them:

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The crimp fittings that need to be removed so you can install new rubber hose:

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Removing the fitting requires two separate cuts, denoted CUT #1 and CUT#2.

CUT #1: You can use a Dremel to cut around the fitting, but I found it much easier to use a pipe cutter for cut #1. The metal is very soft, in fact you need to be very careful you don't twist the metal line. Make the cut in incremental depths just as you would any pipe, and keep the cut as straight as possible. If you cut it right on the top edge you're leaving behind a piece of the fitting that works great as a backstop for the new hose:

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CUT #2: For cut #2 you'll need a hack saw. Cut at an angle across the fitting so as not to cut into the backstop we left behind. DO NOT CUT TOO DEEP! If you start cutting into the rubber hose (and you will) keep it as shallow as possible so as not to damage the metal line inside.

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The crimped part of the fitting should now break away:

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You might want to use a metal file to clean up the backstop a bit if the cut wasn't very straight.

The replacement hose needs to be 1/2" inside diameter and should be high quality, able to withstand at least 250 deg. F and 40 psi. I used Earl's Super Stock hose rated at 250 deg. F and 200 psi. The higher the ratings the better, but remember the hose needs to bend 90 deg. once installed. Higher rated hoses are often much stiffer.

Due to my 2" lift I added a few inches to the stock length of hose. I added 3", I figured having a bit more length would keep it that much further away from the fan.

Just like the stock crimped fitting, I thought it a good idea to use two 7/8" hose clamps on each connection:

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My repaired, 3" longer lines:

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The lines originally had some black plastic corrugated sheathing on them from the factory and I was too lazy to clean the crud off of them, so I replaced it with some cable sheathing I had laying around:

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Installed. Notice how my extra inch of hose keeps the lines a comfortable distance away from the fan and the pulley:

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A few things to note:

1. Removing the lines from the radiator/cooler assembly only requires removing the clip at the connection point. Pull the clip off with needle nose pliers and the line should pull out. ***will post a pic later***

2. You do not need to remove the oil cooler manifold (the thing the oil filter screws into) to remove the lines. Depending on the year of your vehicle, there will either be two threaded fittings or a single bolt connecting the lines to the manifold. HOWEVER, there is a very good chance the seal between the oil cooler manifold and the engine block is leaking. So, after the lines have been removed it is a very good idea to remove the cooler manifold and replace the seals. The seals come as a kit, and are available cheap at your local automotive shop:

http://shop.oreillyauto.com/productdetail.aspx?MfrCode=FEL&MfrPartNumber=ES70016

Items needed for this repair job:
2-3' of 1/2" i.d. rubber hose
8 7/8" hose clamps
oil cooler manifold gasket kit

Tools needed:
ratchet set
needle nose pliers
metal hack saw
medium sized tubing cutter

****I will be adding more pix of the cooler manifold removal and service later today/tomorrow. I discovered my seals were leaking after I bolted everything back together! Hence, why it's a good idea to replace those seals while the lines are detached! *****

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 Post subject: Re: Oil cooler line REPAIR
PostPosted: Sun Jun 21, 2009 8:45 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 16, 2008 1:20 am
Posts: 378
Location: Ithaca,NY area
Great write up! :supz:
I went the removal route with both my '94&'95, but I'm in a cooler environment. :cheers:

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 Post subject: Re: Oil cooler line REPAIR
PostPosted: Sun Jun 21, 2009 10:18 pm 
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Joined: Sat Dec 02, 2006 8:34 pm
Posts: 2596
Location: Orlando, FL
Nice job. The double clamps are a good idea. Check them periodically. Those scew type clamps have a bad habit of loosening a bit over time. \:D/

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 Post subject: Re: Oil cooler line REPAIR
PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 2009 4:00 am 
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Posts: 2711
Excellent repair info and pics, now we have 2 options for whatever suits a persons needs best. :cheers:


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 Post subject: Re: Oil cooler line REPAIR
PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 2009 10:28 am 
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Joined: Sat Sep 09, 2006 10:35 pm
Posts: 4376
Location: New Haven, NY
Great write-up and even better pics!

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Current rides:
2013 Toyota Tundra DC 4x4
2008 Dodge Nitro 4x4
2005 Nissan Sentra 1.8S Special Edition

Mileage spreadsheet

Vans owned:
1986 Safari 2.5L 4 speed manual - scrapped
1995 Astro 2WD conversion 4.11 posi, shift kit, DHC rock rails - sold to Skippy
1998 Astro 4x4 D44, D60, NP231, full hydraulic system with 9k# Milemarker winch and snow plow - sold to Lockdoc
2003 Astro AWD all stock - traded for a 3/4 ton truck
2005 AWD, 4.10's - sold to skippy


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