oil cooler manifold and line removal

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oil cooler manifold and line removal

Post by astrozam » Fri Oct 27, 2006 5:58 pm

Alright, heres a project I've been contemplating for a little while, what to do with the leaking oil cooler lines. I have read of others changing them, only to have them leak again, and I have read of others NOT changing them, only to have one blow out leaving them stranded somewhere facing a huge problem.

I decided to look into whether or not the oil cooler manifold and lines could just be removed and if so, would this cause any problems with over heating. I checked all over the net particularly the S-10 Forums, for those who had done it they
did not have any problems, I also came across this article which finally convinced me it would be o.k
http://www.jagsthatrun.com/V6-instructi ... emoval.pdf

Enough yakkin, now on with the pics...

First pic shows my leaking oil cooler line
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Second pic shows the oil cooler manifold, this is where I started this project
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I drained the oil, and removed the filter ( at this point re-install your drainplug into pan ) heres what the manifold looks like without the oil filter, now how do you get the manifold off you ask? use a #10 allen wrench to remove the threaded insert ( that the oil filter screws on ) then use a T40 torx wrench to remove the two torx bolts on both sides of the threaded insert*
*NOTE, Before you remove the torx bolts, remove the two oil cooler lines that attach at the manifold ( this way the manifold stays secure while your wrenching on the lines)
Once the lines are disconnected from the manifold then remove the two torx bolts ( the manifold should loosed up off the block as your removing the bolts ) if it didn't, then just give it a slight tap.
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Once you've removed the lines and the manifold this is what you'll see
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Looking at the pic above you will see a slight bit of blackish looking gasket material above one of the torx bolt holes, try to remove as much of this gasket material as you can, the stuff you see I was unablr to remove so I had to just leave it.
Now here's what the oil cooler manifold looks like on the workbench, You can see where the black gasket stuck to the top, the threaded insert and the two torxs bolts are on the left, along with the orange rubber gasket that was between the manifold ( see the thin recessed groove ) and the block ( if the orange gasket sticks to the block, just peel it off )
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Here's aother pic of the manifold, the side that the oil filter attaches to
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The tricky part is removing the oil cooler lines from the rad and then removing the lines from the engine area, since the lines are both rubber and formed aluminum tubing you can just pull them out, I found that using a small tubing cutter worked great for cutting the formed tubeing into sections that I could easily remove.

Here's a before pic with the lines still in
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And with the lines removed
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Now all you have to do is re-install the drain plug in the pan ( hopefully you did this already ) then re-insert the threaded insert into the block ( remember that the smaller threaded section goes into the block ) attach your brand spankin new oil filter, then dump in your new oil, mine took approx 4ltr's (check your dipstick ) check for leaks, start it up and check for leaks again, drive it around and enjoy not having to worry about a blown out oil line, heres a final pic of the oil filter tightened up aginst the block, does'nt it look comfy.
Image
Last edited by astrozam on Sat Oct 28, 2006 5:49 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Post by LiftedAWDAstro » Sat Oct 28, 2006 1:31 am

Nice write-up Keith!
Current rides:
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Vans owned:
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1998 Astro 4x4 D44, D60, NP231, full hydraulic system with 9k# Milemarker winch and snow plow - sold to Lockdoc
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Post by SafariRob » Sat Oct 28, 2006 11:17 am

Keith, looks like you took care of that problem for good.
I've read that GM deleted the oil cooler on some later Camaros (or was it Corvettes?) and then specified that Mobil One synthetic oil be used to take the heat.
Rob Shaver
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Post by astrozam » Sat Oct 28, 2006 1:15 pm

SafariRob wrote:Keith, looks like you took care of that problem for good.
I've read that GM deleted the oil cooler on some later Camaros (or was it Corvettes?) and then specified that Mobil One synthetic oil be used to take the heat.
Your right Rob ( they ain't ever gonna leak again,LoL) I believe that was the vette, I do plan on running synth, because it can handle the higher temps better than dino oil can, However since my last oil change was a little too far ago I am going to run one more fill of the dino and then change er up by about the 1st of Nov.

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Post by skippy » Sat Oct 28, 2006 5:22 pm

good write up keith . i didn't even think about writing a post about this when i put the vortec in the 88 . the vortec had the cooler lines where my 88's don't & the 88 radiator didn't have the cooler line connections so i did just what you did , eliminate them . I don't think the heat with out the cooler is all that much of a concern because my 88 never had the cooler & lines . I've pulled a camper , towed a van from binghamton tom my home & never had any problems with over heating the oil or motor . I've really worked the motor in my astro & as long as i keep the oil changed shes been fine . I've had the valve covers off (replace the gaskets ) & have had the oil pan off (same reason) & i didn't see any signes of excesive wear or sludge build up . the only additive i have ever added to my motor is engine restore .
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Post by astrozam » Sun Oct 29, 2006 5:04 pm

My original intention was to go to Princess Auto and get some lines made up which would have been cheaper than replacement lines. I wanted to get the lines made up then take my van into work where I can work on it on my day off. However I could not find out the sizes of the fittings for both ends, which pretty much ruled out getting them made up ahead of time, I was offered a good deal for the replacement lines by a member of our sites but they were still going to be around $100 Can, thats when I started looking into the possibility of removing them altogether, the info I researched indicated that for my particular application I should be able to do this, I also run an aux tranny oil cooler which helps to reduce the temp load on the coolant.
I did keep the oil cooler manifold just in case things don't work out as I have planned, but even if I were to decide to use some sort of oil cooling in the future it would most likely be an aux oil cooler similiar to what I have for the tranny.

Not every make and model of vehicle that uses the 4.3 came with an oil cooler, same for the V8's. As to Gm's reasoning for this who knows, I'm willing to bet that there are many vehicles being driven in the hotter states without them, has this caused any ill effects to those engines I certainly don't have an answer for that.
For our vans, the real concern when it comes to oil temps is the tranny oil temps, once thats been addressed THEN if your oil cooler lines start leaking you need to consider your application as to whether its feasable to remove them altogether or not.

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Re: oil cooler manifold and line removal

Post by Rileysowner » Thu Apr 09, 2009 7:35 pm

I have leaky lines, and am considering this. What is your thoughts on in now that you have run with it for a while? The van is up on stands right now, and I don't know if I will put it down until I decide one way or the other.

Edit: I was just looking through my tools, and sure enough I don't seem to have a #10 Allen wrench. I assume it goes inside the threaded piece.
Last edited by Rileysowner on Thu Apr 09, 2009 8:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: oil cooler manifold and line removal

Post by skippy » Thu Apr 09, 2009 8:11 pm

I'd do it like zam wrote it up , i've done it on 2 vans now with no ill effects & i towed with one van . your not in the south or west coast where the heat of the day could be a major factor as to whether or not you have a cooler .
YOU ONLY NEED TWO TOOLS IN LIFE - WD-40 AND DUCT TAPE. IF IT DOESN'T MOVE AND SHOULD, USE THE WD-40. IF IT SHOULDN'T MOVE AND DOES, USE THE DUCT TAPE.


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Re: oil cooler manifold and line removal

Post by Rileysowner » Thu Apr 09, 2009 8:30 pm

I am planning on doing it like Zam posted. I am just about to run out and get a #10 Allen wrench. I am curious how difficult it is go get the threaded piece out, not to mention those torx screws. Oh, I take it the threaded piece the filter attaches to is normally threaded not reverse threaded. I don't want to start trying to loosen it only to realize I have been tightening it. #-o

Edit: I went to get a #10 allen and what should I find, but they had that one on sale 50% off the regular price.
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Re: oil cooler manifold and line removal

Post by Rileysowner » Thu Apr 09, 2009 9:21 pm

Question. I can't get the oil cooler lines off the manifold which Zam suggests doing before removing the manifold. Could I just leave them on, remove the manifold and then cut them off since I am getting rid of them? The problem is they are held on by one 13mm bolt and I can't get anything on it that I get any leverage with.
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Re: oil cooler manifold and line removal

Post by skippy » Thu Apr 09, 2009 10:23 pm

Yes Jim cutting them would be fine , i had to do that on the 96 , having the adapter in your hand to get the allen bolt out is so much easier . all the bolts , torx & the allen center piece for the filter gave me a hard time getting them off but not impossible . I just held onto the adapter with a big pair of channel locks & the center piece came out easily after you break it loose .
YOU ONLY NEED TWO TOOLS IN LIFE - WD-40 AND DUCT TAPE. IF IT DOESN'T MOVE AND SHOULD, USE THE WD-40. IF IT SHOULDN'T MOVE AND DOES, USE THE DUCT TAPE.


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Re: oil cooler manifold and line removal

Post by Rileysowner » Thu Apr 09, 2009 11:16 pm

Progress so far. I have the threaded piece out, and the torx bolts loose. Even better I have the top line taken off of the rad. Now the bottom one. . . that's a different issue. I have been working on that for the last hour, and can't seem to get at it well enough. I know there is a clip around it (I took one off the top) but I don't know if that is meant to lock it in or not. If it is I can't get it off, not enough room. I can get a small screw driver under the clip, but there is not enough room to pry at it. I thought of getting a wrench on it to see if I could move it without removing the clip, but the small pipe wrench (hey it worked on the top) can get in there, but again, no leverage. I am tempted to simply cut through the line and leave a little piece in there. Right now I am trying to decide if I continue or wait until tomorrow after the Good Friday service.

It will be nice to have the lines out of there as the oil that has leaked has left the area under is well coated.
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Re: oil cooler manifold and line removal

Post by sfeaver » Thu Apr 09, 2009 11:32 pm

I replaced my lines last year, does anyone want the old lines to make something up with? They leak slowly at the crimps (as usual). If someone is interested you can have them, can always try replacing the rubber while off the vehicle. I havent thrown them out yet! hehe

Scott

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Re: oil cooler manifold and line removal

Post by Rileysowner » Thu Apr 09, 2009 11:52 pm

sfeaver wrote:I replaced my lines last year, does anyone want the old lines to make something up with? They leak slowly at the crimps (as usual). If someone is interested you can have them, can always try replacing the rubber while off the vehicle. I havent thrown them out yet! hehe

Scott
I just want them off. I wish I could get the bottom one off the Rad because if I could then I would have the rest of the job done in very little time. It is getting dark now, so I will have to get back at it tomorrow after remembering Jesus' death in my place Good Friday morning.

Any hints on getting the bottom line off the Rad?
Last edited by Rileysowner on Fri Apr 10, 2009 12:25 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: oil cooler manifold and line removal

Post by skippy » Fri Apr 10, 2009 12:24 am

so cut it off as close to the rad untill better weather & time . i'm sure you'll be under the front end sooner or later . #-o #-o #-o

at least if your like me you will. :D :D
YOU ONLY NEED TWO TOOLS IN LIFE - WD-40 AND DUCT TAPE. IF IT DOESN'T MOVE AND SHOULD, USE THE WD-40. IF IT SHOULDN'T MOVE AND DOES, USE THE DUCT TAPE.


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SOME PEOPLE ARE LIKE SLINKIES - NOT REALLY GOOD FOR ANYTHING BUT THEY BRING A SMILE TO YOUR FACE WHEN PUSHED DOWN THE STAIRS.


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