Hi Lift jack and rock sliders

[photo_van]

So I got my wife a HiLift jack for Valentines Day, but she had no where to use it except over my head! So I installed some Trail Gear rock sliders ~$150 ebay. It took a bit of modification, but the sliders come "universal" with extra mounting hardware.

I might add that in seven years I've had 7 flats while driving the van in the SW deserts (3 sidewalls and 4 tread). I carry a plug kit and compressor but that's not so good for sidewalls.... I'm not sure why the van goes through tires (weight?). I ran BFG's on my Toyota PU for 15 years without a flat.

[ihatemybike]

More pics of rock rail and its mounting.

[photo_van]

I was afraid someone was going to say that. I'll see if I can take some. I mounted to the two leaf spring hanger bolts in back and used an existing hole in the subframe up front (I drilled another 1/2" hole next to it). I accessed those holes through the large body mount hole in the sub-frame. The slider definitely flexes when it takes on the full load of the vehicle, but it seems to get the job done.

[astrozam]

Are you running street psi or airing down a little?

[photo_van]

I air down to ~30psi off highway. 50psi on the highway but that kinda shakes the van apart on the washboard.

[astrozam]

E rated?

I don't have personal experience in that part of the country but from what others have said, the rocks are quite sharp and 30psi is still realtively hard, not sure what speeds your driving but obviously there is a sweet spot for those conditions

[photo_van]

Ya, a lot of sharp rocks! I drive pretty slow on rough roads as I want my vehicles (and my bones) (and my marriage) to last. The usual exception to that is miles and miles of washboard, where as you said there is a sweet spot. 25-30lbs at about 35-40mph seams to really smooth out the ride quite a bit.

The last flat was a sidewall this spring in Utah. Very sandy area; happened to break a Juniper root with the front tire that then punggied into the sidewall of the rear tire . A sidewall flat in the sand! Luck of the road I guess?

[doyoulikeithere]

happened to break a Juniper root

Nice looking ride! watch your knuckles on that jack, they can bite !!

Just noticed the Juniper!
Do you ever see any with large trunks?
I would sure love some of that awesome red Juniper wood if you ever get the chance to harvest one big enough to cut into lumber...

[photo_van]

[/quote] Just noticed the Juniper!
Do you ever see any with large trunks?
I would sure love some of that awesome red Juniper wood if you ever get the chance to harvest one big enough to cut into lumber...[/quote]

Well I've got some on my property about 5ft DBH, 1000 yrs old I figure. Don't think I'll be harvesting them any time soon though! But I'll keep an eye out.

[LiftedAWDAstro]

You definitely need to post up the rock rails! Also air down to 18 psi off road and keep the speed under about 10 - 15 mph. If you run faster 22 - 25 psi should be good.

[photo_van]

First off a disclaimer, I'm a pretty cheep guy and this van is a budget mobile. I usually use materials I have or can scrounge. That said, you will see some "composite" type brakets that are welded up from scrap metal I had around.

The sliders are Rugged Trail. They come un-painted and coated in some sort of grease. The three "legs" are not attached,

Rugged trail slider.jpg (35.28 KiB) Viewed 9701 times

For an extra $25 you can get the mounting hardware (6- 3/16" L brackets and gussets) which is pretty much cheaper then I can get the flat plate for

The base for attachment to the vehicle is 2 1/2 bolts up front on the sub-frame, and the two large bolts at the rear spring hanger. It is these four bolts that hold the entire set up. There is nothing else along the span which is about 4 feet. With more time and a lot more metal, one could tie into the unabody frame for some suport in the center.

Basically, the next components are 3/8" x 6" fully gusseted L brackets that bolt up front and rear. I then welded a 1x3" tube from front bracket to rear mimicking a vehicle frame. This is where being cheap isn't that great; if I hadn't had that material I would recommend going bigger with this framing. This framing member (and the front and rear brackets) then provided attachment points for the sliders.

front attachment

rear attachment

front bolts

[photo_van]

L bracket and gusset

middle attachment

The entire unit does flex a bit, but is ridged enough to hold up each side of the car.

And yes, it was a conscious decision to but them on "backwards".

[LiftedAWDAstro]

The flex is why I make mine so you use the entire length of the pinch weld seam...almost completely removes the flex. Looks good for using scrap pieces.

I was gonna say something about being backwards! What length bars did you use? 67"

[photo_van]

By "pinch weld seam" do you mean where the body panel is welded to the floor panel? If so, I guess mine end up using that too as that's what ends up taking some of the load when the bar finally flexes onto it (toward the end of the lift). I was a bit concerned the first time I lifted the entire side with the jack. But It doesn't seem to cause any harm and I guess that's actually where your supposed to lift, on most (albeit lighter) unabody cars.

[photo_van]

Flat #8, 25 miles from Nowhere, AZ on our last road trip. So much for the HiLift guaranteeing no more flats! Had an internet connection though; new replacement waiting for us at Discount Tire; $30!