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 Post subject: Re: Tips and Tricks
PostPosted: Sun May 22, 2011 3:01 am 
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I have my van tatooed on my cheeks
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Posts: 2795
ihatemybike wrote:
1Gary wrote:
Spray down the bolts for your front seats or caption seats and buy a 13mm deep well socket.Let it set for awhile,then loosen and tighten when you have time.

I seem to recall that being 18 mm.


You could right about that Aaron.Guys,check the size and get that deep socket.

_________________
1979 Malibu drag race only car
1999 Sonoma 4.3 5 speed-Rufus
1989 Astro-Ole Yellar cancelled-still selling off parts
1985 Astro-shop van R.I.P. my friend
1994 Astro LT RWD W4.3 rod knock RIP
1982 Winnebago single rear wheel-Chevy 350 Scraped 1/28/13-broken dreams......


Rochester,NY


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 Post subject: Re: Tips and Tricks
PostPosted: Sun Jun 05, 2011 1:27 pm 
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I have my van tatooed on my cheeks
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Pre-oiling or priming on a engine rebuild.This article I found just makes sense:

Alternative Method to Pre-Oiling Tip
I respectfully disagree with the published tip on how to properly prime a new engine’s oiling system. Employing the method depicted will not only pre-oil the engine but, more importantly, it will serve to wash off all or most of the assembly lube that we carefully apply during engine assembly. We spend about $60 per gallon for assembly lube and we prefer that it remains where we put it for the initial startup. The label says, “Clevite 77 Bearing Guard is specially formulated with an extreme pressure rating to provide proper lubrication for internal engine components during assembly and the first crucial moments of operation on startup.”

I believe that continued priming after the oil pump is primed, the oil filter is filled and the main galleys are filled, will only serve to dilute and wash away the assembly lube from all the bearings and valve train. Leakage around the lifter bores will also wash away or dilute the cam lube on the lobes, lifter faces and bodies, causing increased likelihood of cam/lifter destruction of flat tappet cams upon startup. We feel that the assembly lube will do its designated task of keeping the engine internals lubed properly until full oil pressure and volume are attained.

Our preferred method and the method we instruct our customers to use for pre-oiling is as follows: Before filling the oil pan with the prescribed amount of oil, plus an extra quart for the filter and any cam break-in additive, premix additives into the oil in a clean container before putting the oil into the engine. The additive should be in the oil at the first instant of startup, not waiting until it mixes in the pan later, possibly leaving critical areas without protection.

With Chevy style oiling galleries, use an empty distributor housing or a commercially sold timing tool to seal the lifter galley on the passenger side before priming. Insert the priming tool, spin it, and you will feel it spin freely until the pump picks up oil and drags down the drill motor. (You prelubed the pump with bearing prelube before installing it, didn’t you?) Now continue spinning the tool. When you feel the priming motor drag down again, the oil filter is filling.

Now the critical part. When the drill motor is dragged down for the third time that indicates that the oil filter is full and the main oil galleries are also full. Now, Stop priming the engine. Any further priming will only wash off the prelube. I prefer allowing small bubbles of air in the galleries to washing off the prelube!

We didn’t come up with this priming method by accident. We assembled a long block and primed it for several minutes using the accepted method of the day. We then removed the oil pan and found only small traces of the assembly lube remaining on the bearings. Much of the assembly lube was also washed from the pushrod ends. We have been employing our current priming method and recommending it to our customers on all engines that we machine and manufacture for over 25 years with no problems.

There may be assembly lubes on the market that are for assembly only and that don’t contain extreme pressure additives, but I can’t think of a reason to use one. When in doubt, read the label or contact the manufacturer. There is more than one way to accomplish anything, but this method works for us.

Timm Jurinche
Tuf-Enuf Auto & Marine
Avondale, AZ

_________________
1979 Malibu drag race only car
1999 Sonoma 4.3 5 speed-Rufus
1989 Astro-Ole Yellar cancelled-still selling off parts
1985 Astro-shop van R.I.P. my friend
1994 Astro LT RWD W4.3 rod knock RIP
1982 Winnebago single rear wheel-Chevy 350 Scraped 1/28/13-broken dreams......


Rochester,NY


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 Post subject: Re: Tips and Tricks
PostPosted: Tue Dec 13, 2011 5:10 pm 
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I sleep in my van
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Joined: Tue Sep 19, 2006 9:12 pm
Posts: 542
Broke the bead loose on the tire with a bad stem. Don't use a low slung vehicle this way. My wife's G6 needs a new windshield washer tank now b/c of this. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bha3go80Syg


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 Post subject: Re: Tips and Tricks
PostPosted: Tue Dec 13, 2011 6:32 pm 
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Posts: 1692
DoH...


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 Post subject: Re: Tips and Tricks
PostPosted: Thu Feb 27, 2014 12:37 am 
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I get chills without my van.

Joined: Sat Feb 22, 2014 8:18 am
Posts: 55
Location: North America;varies sometimes daily
Might just be my earphones; but sounds like dude needs to go wreck, the truck so he can get the insurance check to fix the truck; and leave the ATV crap alone. #-o :peep:

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91 Astro EXT; never liked GM till i stumbled into this van. Free just for dragging it out of a field. Ran like a scalded cat, had 53K miles and completely rusted out brake lines. Been all over North America, lots of fire roads and no roads; fully loaded and towing constantly. Average 21 mpg. I recently (by accident) found out she now has 265,886.4 miles without so much as a tuneup, and only 1 oil change. And still no leaks. MAN I LOVE THIS VAN !

!994 Safari AWD


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 Post subject: Re: Tips and Tricks
PostPosted: Tue Jan 06, 2015 7:03 pm 
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I finally get the smurf thing

Joined: Wed Dec 29, 2010 12:06 am
Posts: 195
After much swearing, how to quickly remove leaky oil lines.

1)Remove filter
2)Remove adapter
3)Unbolt lines from from radiator
4) Cut lines as close as possible to bolt on underside of engine
5) remove 10mm bolt from hell

I opted to remove the bolt prior to cutting the lines and hated myself. It can be done...but with much swearing.

You plan to run real oil lines from the adapter to the in front of the radiator...right?

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What do you think of my quest to swap transfer cases to the venerable BW4472?
viewtopic.php?f=58&t=9962

Photos including tear down for intake gaskets (PITA)
http://www.smugmug.com/gallery/n-xSjRG/i-bHzD6cz


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 Post subject: Re: Tips and Tricks
PostPosted: Thu Oct 04, 2018 3:28 pm 
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I am merely driving my van
I am merely driving my van

Joined: Fri Mar 13, 2015 4:48 pm
Posts: 5
can i replace my 1997 astro vans motor with any 4.3 v6 motor?


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 Post subject: Re: Tips and Tricks
PostPosted: Fri Oct 05, 2018 11:07 am 
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I am merely driving my van
I am merely driving my van

Joined: Fri Mar 13, 2015 4:48 pm
Posts: 5
can i replace my 2000 astro vans motor with any 4.3 v6 motor 93?


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 Post subject: Re: Tips and Tricks
PostPosted: Fri Oct 05, 2018 11:31 am 
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Posts: 336
No, what you need IIRC would be an '00, '01 or '02 for ease of install. If you go back in vintage they are a different beast.

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'97 Safari, 290,000 miles,,, retired
'93 Safari shorty, 350 swap
'02 Astro, my new work van


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 Post subject: Re: Tips and Tricks
PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2018 5:04 pm 
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I sleep in my van

Joined: Sun Jan 13, 2008 5:23 am
Posts: 775
Hi,
Lubed ddoor latches, hood release, E brake mech, Dutch door latch with PTFE no dust lube.

Also, tightened cable on E brake linkage under my 2" lifted 2003 AWD.

AP


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